2022 Markus Molitor Riesling Brauneberger Juffer-Sonnenuhr Auslese **
Wine Profile & Character
The Brauneberger Juffer-Sonnenuhr ranks among the Mittelmosel’s most storied crus, its steep, sundial-marked slope having earned comparisons to the great vineyards of the Côte d’Or since the nineteenth century. Markus Molitor farms this amphitheater of blue and grey Devonian slate with an unhurried, non-interventionist hand, allowing the vineyard’s natural drainage, radiant heat retention, and near-vertical pitch toward the river to dictate ripening rather than forcing the fruit through cellar manipulation. The south-facing exposure concentrates warmth throughout the growing season, while the Mosel itself acts as a reflective mirror, extending hang time and permitting the noble rot and desiccation that Auslese demands to develop with precision rather than haste. Molitor’s philosophy here favors patience: hand-harvested selections, spontaneous fermentation dynamics, and extended lees contact that lend the finished wine its characteristic density and slow-unfurling complexity.
In the glass, this Auslese ** reveals a bouquet that moves from candied quince and dried apricot toward white flowers, orange pith, and a smoky, wet-stone undertone unmistakably born of slate. Botrytis influence is present but restrained, contributing a honeyed, saffron-like lift rather than overt oxidative richness. On the palate, the 85 g/L residual sugar is held in check by a taut 8 g/L acid spine, producing a wine that feels more sculptural than syrupy — layers of ripe peach, candied lemon peel, and baker’s spice unfold across a viscous yet buoyant texture, with the slate minerality resurfacing mid-palate as a cooling, saline counterpoint to the fruit’s sweetness.
The 2022 vintage delivered a rare combination of ripeness and structural tension in the Mosel, and this wine reflects that duality — sweet enough to reward immediate indulgence, yet architecturally built for decades of transformation. Over the next fifteen to twenty years, expect the primary orchard-fruit character to recede in favor of petrol, dried herbs, and toasted nut nuances, while the acidity ensures the wine retains its vertical lift rather than collapsing into flabbiness. This is a bottle for the patient collector as much as the immediate hedonist.
Sourced Profile
Compiled from producer and published descriptions, not a firsthand tasting by our team.
Appearance: Deep straw-gold with a faint greenish glint at the rim, brilliantly clear with the slight viscosity typical of botrytis-touched Auslese.
Aromas & Bouquet: Aromas of dried apricot, quince paste, and candied lemon peel lead, layered with white blossom, orange pith, and a subtle saffron-honey nuance from noble rot. Beneath this sits a distinct wet-slate minerality, smoky and cool, grounding the wine's exotic fruit expression.
Palate & Structure: Unctuous yet precisely balanced, the palate opens with ripe peach and dried mango before shifting into baker's spice and candied citrus. The 8 g/L acidity cuts cleanly through the 85 g/L sugar, lending lift and tension, while a saline, slate-driven minerality resurfaces mid-palate to keep the richness in check.
Finish & Longevity: Long and penetrating, the finish leaves lingering notes of honeyed citrus and wet stone, with a faint phenolic grip that lends structure to the sweetness. Salinity persists well after the fruit fades, a hallmark of the vineyard's slate terroir.
Food Pairings
Pair with seared foie gras and quince compote, where the wine's acidity cuts richness while echoing the fruit's honeyed tones. Blue-veined cheeses such as Roquefort create a classic sweet-salty contrast. Spiced Asian dishes — Thai green curry or five-spice duck — find harmony with the wine's exotic fruit and lively acid spine. For dessert, a simple almond tart allows the wine's nuance to remain the focal point.
Cellaring & Ageability
Drink 2027–2045, with the wine's youthful orchard fruit gradually giving way to petrol, dried herb, and toasted nut complexity. Its acid backbone ensures decades of graceful evolution without loss of freshness.